Sotto Sopra

Friday night. Birthday dinner. We sit down at a table for two in the ambient Sotta Sopra, and the server comes up to the table with a fateful question:

"Tonight will you be drinking bottled still water, Italian sparkling, or... tap water?"



Before we even glanced at the menu, we were forced to define ourselves to the server. I found this quite tacky and would prefer that a restaurant take a more subtle approach to this, perhaps increasing entree prices by $2 or $3 and offering bottled water - sparkling or still - carte blanche.

Anyhow...

My first visit to Sotto Sopra was in college, when the recruiter at The Sun took me out for a farewell lunch at the end of my internship. I look back on my former life as a newspaper reporter with much fondness, and feel nostalgia at most anything that I can connect.

I've been back a few times and on Friday, when I needed to choose a place to celebrate the birthday of a person who hadn't eaten anything buy plain rice, applesauce, and Gatorade for four days, I picked Sotta Sopra.

This Italian place has chic-chic decor and lies on the Charles Street corridor that also includes Ixia, Helmand, and a few others - one of my favorite perks of living in Mount Vernon. The menu has everything from the basics to more creative fusion items, and it's always pretty delicious.

We started off with fried calamari, which was quite good. The server told us the calamari is fresh, and I could taste the difference. Mixed in with the squid were the thinnest shaves of green and yellow squash - also delicious. The dish is served with a spicy marinara sauce and a wasabi sour cream. The tomato sauce was tasty but the wasabi was a bit too heavy for either of us to enjoy.

Birthday boy - who came down last Monday with a nasty virus and spent the week eating a sick person's diet - ordered a duck-stuffed ravioli sauteed in butter and sage and covered in a truffle reduction sauce. Very flavorful and hearty, but this dish might be better shared or served as a side offering. The sauce was incredibly rich and - although it was finished - made the dish in my mind a bit too much for a stand-alone entree. Perhaps it would be better atop a bed of sauteed spinach or swiss chard.

Last time I ate at Sotta Sopra, food envy kicked in over H's Papardelle Sotta Sopra - so after a difficult run through the menu, I went for it. The restaurant makes a perfectly thin sheet egg pasta, served with a light tomato sauce and pockets of smoky fresh buffalo mozzerella. Simple, but delicious. I thought there was perhaps a bit too much sauce - it was nearly soup - but I was very pleased.

For dessert we shared a liquid-center chocolate flourless cake. I don't normally appreciate chocolate, but of course, knew not to insert an opinion about dessert on someone else's birthday. But this was phenomenal - there wasn't a hint of sugary sweetness to mask the cocoa flavor. It was rich, but not too rich. And, a delightful surprise - it was on the house.

Despite the irritating water question, I thoroughly enjoyed Sotto Sopra and, as it's in the neighborhood, will definitely return again and again. I certainly reccomend it as an alternative to Little Italy's offerings and as a highlight of Mount Vernon restaurants.

Ersters

Before the season ends, I suggest everyone in Baltimore high-tail it to Cross Street Market for a plate of delicious, slurpy, salty oysters on the half shell and an afternoon experience that can't be beat.

In Federal Hill, at Cross Street between Light and Charles streets, the oyster bar is on the end of the market facing Charles. This place is a slice of Baltimore, without the sketch, and just as much about the experience as it is the taste. You sit at the bar and a crusty oysterman shucks them off a pile of ice right in front of you, while he theorizes on life and women. For $7 you get a half-dozen +1 served up on a styrafoam plate with a slice of lemon, and all the hot sauce, horseradish, cocktail sauce and crackers you'd ever want. Plus - cold beer for cheap. If you're hungry for more, the market also has a cool sushi bar and offers items like steamed shrimp and some amazing french fries.

Regi's American Bistro

I've wanted to try Regi's, on Light Street, for ages.

We went for a late lunch on a leisurely Sunday, after oysters at Cross Street. To celebrate turning in a 31-page paper (ok, 15 of it was collateral - but still) and volunteering away my Saturday night (ok, I enjoyed it - but still) I decided a glass of wine was in order.

But that's neither here nor there. Regi's offers outdoor seating, and since this perfect fall weather has streteched into late October, we sat there. We sat down around two, so we straddled brunch and dinner and had only a limited menu to choose from, but that was still enough.

For an appetizer, we had No Choice But to try AJ's Tater Tots, described as "old fashioned tater tots stuffed with melted brie cheese and apple wood bacon." In reality, they were school-lunch fried tater tots and, rather than stuffed, they were topped with some large pieces of awesome bacon and what I have no choice but to assume was brie. While this dish tasted good, it was a little misleading to describe them as stuffed when they were really just glorified cheese fries. We expected something much more exotic and interesting than what arrived on our table.

Regi's menu has two sections of salads - one called Big Salads and another kind of tucked under the appetizers. I ordered a not-big salad, the Cape Cod. If this was not-Big, I do not want to know what is BIG at Regi's. The salad was pretty awesome - field greens (no spines!) with dried cranberries, bleu cheese, and candied walnuts with balsamic. Simple but delicious!

The Helmand

One of Baltimore's culinary gems is The Helmand, an Afghan restaurant on Charles Street. It's owned by a brother of Hamid Karzai, Afghanistan's president, and I swear that while you are in the restaurant you will overhear at least two different people mention that fact or ask server if that's true. (Our server politely told us that yes, that's true and Karzai is the server's uncle, too)

So Afghan cuisine is seriously delicious. For an appetizer, we ordered what everyone says is the must-try: Kaddo Borawani - "Pan fried and baked baby pumpkin seasoned with sugar and served on yogurt garlic sauce." The pumpkin is super sweet, and on its own is pretty gross. But topped with the sauce, the sweetness is balanced out and while I couldn't imagine eating one on my own, but it was perfect to share. I do admit that one bite was more than enough for me. We also got an eggplant - Banjan - appetizer, cooked with tomatoes and that delicious Afghan spice and served with the yogurt garlic sauce.

And for the meals... I had the Lamb Lawand. Two days later as I think about this I am gushing. Menu description:

Boneless lamb sauteed with fresh tomatoes, mushrooms, and herb seasoning, topped with a dressing of yogurt and sour cream; and served with sabzy and challow.

The lamb just fell apart in my mouth and was so good; the mushrooms were kind of gross and looked canned. I wish there had been more sauce because it was so delicious on the rice; I was not a fan of sabzy - which is like overcooked spinach and not very flavorful.

I'm trying to be more critical rather than just gushing over food, but I actually loved The Helmand.

Savoring summer flavor

Fall is always a nostalgic time for me. Not for any really deep reason like the symbolism of the falling leaves, but just because I love summer.

To me, summer is sundresses and pedicures and ice-cold gin & tonic, nights that start as the sun fades and stretch into the sultry heat of dark, and the time of freedom and few cares. Things happen in summer that don't happen the rest of the year. Each summer of my life that I remember - most until I finished college spent living in another city or centered around a major event - has marked a seminal moment, starting with the one in 1979 when I was born. In 2000 I lived in New Orleans for those three months and that summer I learned to be the person I am and I want to be. I love those moments of my summers, of my life.

It's October. Definitely fall. This summer was one of self-discovery and a little bit of difficulty that forced me to look inward, and its ok that it's over. I got a lot out of it. And now I'm getting a bit nostalgic for summer, especially after today's lunch: cucumber and what was probably the last haul of summer tomatoes from the Farmer's Market.

Perfectly ripe, sweet and tangy and rich, those tomatoes came to me so late in the season as if to remind me that I am supposed to be thinking, pondering, reflecting on this summer. They're telling me that summer might be over, but the beauty of the summer can pop back at any time, so don't forget it. That I need to appreciate the things that came of this summer all year long, and look forward to the times when I can reach back on those lessons and use them, savor them. Just like you do the surprising fall tomato.

Matsuri, Federal Hill

Last time I ate at Matsuri, I failed to detail the wonderfulness of the sushi place in the heart of Fed Hill. This time I dined with the same person as I did last time, and it was twice as nice.



Head over heels, Matsuri is a million times better than Kiku, and even Minato. From the edamame to the generous rolls, this place is a hit. Their Dragon Roll - a rainbow of salmon, tuna, and avacado encrusting rice hiding tempura-cooked shrimp - is better than the usual specialty roll. At this point I'm impressed by just-above-average, thanks to Kiku - therefore blown away by Matsuri, so their spicy tuna was amazing because the spiciness was mixed up with the tuna. At our request, they made a special salmon and asparagus roll, and I was pleased with that as well. Matsuri also serves Quail Egg, my new favorite dare for those lucky enough to get sushi with me, and this time with Smelt Roe. (Sorry friends - suggest we go out for pizza instead and you'll be safe.)

Above all, the service at Matsuri is excellent. We took a long time to order, as we had a few months to catch up on, and the server was kind and patient. As the place shut down and we finished our dinner, one worker fed the tank of tiger fish next to us, making for a delightful bit of entertainment.

Matsuri's drink list offers a white wine, called "Oroya Sushi Wine." Sushi wine? I asked the server. She said "Hm, I don't really know. It is from Spain."

Beautiful.

BANNED Kiku Sushi Restaurant

My first free Saturday in, uh, months was destined to be perfect. It was - class in D.C., then terrific shopping at the always-awesome Cupcake, a nap and then a jaunt over to Fed Hill to meet the runners for rooftop debauchery and then carousing, all mixed in with perfect weather.

Yep, perfect. Until we ordered sushi from Kiku Sushi. Maybe it was an off night, as this place was named Best of Baltimore in 2005. But with so many other sushi places in the nabe, it's not worth chancing.

The rolls were sloppy - too much, uneven rice. The fish was fishy - not the way it's supposed to be, but the way that makes you pucker your mouth because of the foul after taste. The steamed dumplings were crunchy around the edges and the edamame was brown and looked three days old.

So I'm being harsh, I know. But with so many great sushi places in Baltimore, including Matsuri and Cross Street just in Federal Hill, a restaurant can't afford to deliver poor-quality food on a Saturday night. Gross fish, messsed-up orders, sloppy sushi and nasty edamame... Kiku is BANNED.

(That said, Saturday was still perfect. The sushi just sucked.)

Soup's On, Hampden

OMG. Right now, as I type, I am savoring the most delicious fast-food lunch. If good food appeals to you - good food as in simple, fresh ingredients thoughtfully merged into a healthy meal - you must try Soup's On in Hampden.

I've written about this place before, but today I just can't get over my lunch -- fennel and shrimp soup, perfectly balancing the flavors, and an arugula salad topped with apples, almonds, and a little bit of brie.

It's like I died and went to heaven.

b bistro, Bolton Hill

After a squash-perfect trip to the farmer's market, Mom and I ventured to b bistro for Sunday brunch. After reading glowing reviews and hearing praise from friends, I had high hopes for this place.

b bistro is nestled among the stately, urban rowhomes along the tree-lined streets of Bolton Hill. Inside it's simple and urbane, lending to a very appealing charm. The brunch menu was simple - the two eggs & bacon bit, an array of omelettes and benedicts, and a few mundane extras like the breakfast burrito and a skillet melt.

Mom ordered an omelette with brie, asparagus, and crabmeat. She was very pleased with it, as the asparagus was thin and fresh and the crab was aplenty. (There's few better ways to irritate a Baltimorean than to skimp on crabmeat, so way to go, b!)

I ordered the traditional benedict. The hollandaise was lighter than I've had before, which confused me - I think hollandaise has to be rich to set off the dish. The ham was great, obviously of high quality, with grillmarks that I appreciated. And the english muffin tasted home made or at least artisan. The eggs were a bit undercooked for my taste, as the poached whites were still clear in many places. That may be a personal preference, however, I've never had such an undercooked egg on a benedict. The home fries served with both the omelette and the benedict were above average, with lots of fresh cooked bell peppers and onions, but unfortunately, were served to us cold.

My critical thoughts were wiped away when the bill came - less than $30 for two to enjoy the atmosphere and eat a mostly good Sunday brunch. I'd like to give b bistro another try, perhaps for dinner, because I think there is a lot of potential. Given the charming location, organic ingredients, and overall positive ruling on the food, I would also return for brunch.

Trinacria

Reaching back for childhood memories, I recall occasional trips after Sunday mass at Mom's ancestral parish to a magical Italian grocery store in downtown Baltimore. We'd emerge with a Volvo full of gallon-sized tins of olive oil, cases of canned crushed tomatoes, boxes of cheap wine, and pasta, olives, sardines, pizelle, and fresh mozzerella.

I recently rediscovered Trinacria when I moved to Mount Vernon. On the outside, on the 400 block of Paca Street, it's a little less magical than I remembered, so at first, I was wary. But inside, Trinacria still delights and inspires me. It's a small row-house first floor, stuffed with people and walls lined to the ceiling with authentic Italian imports.

This weekend several darling friends will run the Baltimore Marathon, so I offered to host a pre-race pasta party. I'll be in class during race time, or else I'd be running at least a relay leg myself. During my lunch break, I ran home to meet a washer repair man. He finished his task in minutes, so I spontaneously decided to check out Trinacria, in hopes of avoiding Safeway for my party purchasing. Score! I came away with a bottle of vino di tavola (for me, not the runners!), a half-dozen fresh meatballs, cheese ravioli from Veleggia's, portobello mushroom ravioli hand-made at the store, five cans of Cento crushed tomatoes, garlic, a pound each of dried whole-wheat and white pastas (and all for a price lower than dinner for one at a generic pasta place).

Salute, Trinacria!

My Perfect Dinner Tour

About every two years I get the chance to catch up with a great old college buddy. In town from L.A. for a wedding last weekend, his boss asked him to head to Chicago this weekend, so he stuck around town for a few extra days and took a night to visit me in Baltimore. I took him on a Charm City culinary tour, with stops at some of my favorite places for some of my favorite foods. Only a half-dozen oysters could have made this any better. Here's the perfect drawn-out dinner in my world:

Stop 1: Iggie's, shared a small margherita pizza and sipped Pellegrino

Stop 2: Brewer's Art, drank a couple cocktails in the basement

Stop 3: Minato, ordered a spread of sushi - including quail eggs (yes, I finally ate one!) - and sake

Stop 4: Dangerously Delicious Pies, housed a day-old slice of raspberry pie

Wedding bells

This blogger is back after four glorious days celebrating the wedding of H&D. I can't even begin to tell you about the delicious meals we shared at party after party in their honor. Congratulations to a beautiful couple!



See more photos on their photographers' blog.

Baltimore's Fancy Markets

My love for Whole Foods blossomed over a summer living in New Orleans. One afternoon I stumbled upon the adorable little market on Esplanade - it was an intimate, homey store that appeared like more of a mom-and-pop shop than the big ware-house versions we see today. I was hooked. KF and I would go there and get this amazing pesto dip, which I have never been able to recreate, and the makings for our summer hit, "Super Nachos," a dish of chips piled with beans, avacados, tomatos, peppers, herbs, whatever that we ate nearly every week and became more and more elaborate with each rendition.

Anyhow, that love reigns. I love the little market with high-quality, original offerings, excellent prepared foods, friendly service. I try to limit my shopping at the generic Safeway and Shoppers because those places tend to bleed out the pleasure of the experience for me.

The Baltimore Sun published an interesting comparison of the area's four specialty stores. I have my own opinions of Whole Foods vs. Wegman's vs. Fresh Market vs. Eddies.

What are yours?

Bistrot du Coin

Friday night I finally ate at Bistrot du Coin. Over the years I'd heard so much about this place from friends living in DuPont and nearby, and given my appreciation for French food, I was dying to try it.

Truth is, I had low expectations. But now I feel like a jerk for assuming that this was a yuppie scenester place that delivered more atmosphere than quality food. Bistrot du Coin turned out a fantastic meal in a great atmosphere.

To start, I had Gratinée des Halles (French Onion Soup) that - really - is the best I've ever had. The cheese was perfectly crispy, the broth cooked long enough that the onions mostly disintegrated, leaving a delicious balance of wine and onion. I expect to return just for a second helping of this soup.

C and I also shared Salade d'artichaut et asperges (baby artichoke and grilled asparagus salad), Gratin d’endives au jambon (braised endives with French ham, Swiss gruyère and béchamel sauce), Mergez grillées, taboulé version Bistrot (Grilled spicy lamb and beef sausages served with couscous salad) and a dessert that was not very memorable, hence why I can not list it here. Overall, it was a great meal and representative of my view of authentic French cooking. Oh, and the scene was happenin'!